Celebrity Dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank Dishes His Skincare Tips

When it comes to his signature pro-aging approach, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank of PFRANKMD advises that less is often more—especially when it comes to avoiding “medspa face.”

“Just because something in a small amount is good doesn’t mean more is better, so unfortunately, it’s giving injectables a bad name,” says celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank of PFRANKMD of the increasingly common overuse of injectables. Dr. Frank describes this dreaded “medspa face” as a byproduct of the aesthetic industry’s commoditization. “It represents an overindulgence of injectables, mostly due to the fault of providers incentivized financially rather than by the best aesthetic interest of the patient,” he explains. This state manifests as a “uniform, ageless look where the face becomes frozen, large, emotionless, square or puffy.” According to Frank, the issue is not with the injectables themselves, which have faced backlash recently, but with their misuse. The “more is better” philosophy is misleading; Small amounts can be beneficial, but overuse leads to negative perceptions and outcomes.

The proliferation of medspas has democratized access to cosmetic treatments across various demographics, but not without issues. Dr. Frank points out the dangers of unregulated practices: “You have providers who are not physicians—not even nurses. You have people that are getting illegal injections from nonlicensed healthcare providers—that’s really where the news is. The news that’s surrounding medspas is really by unlicensed injectors who are giving counterfeit Botox or are doing illegal injectables with non-FDA-approved substances.” Dr. Frank stresses the importance of receiving treatments from licensed healthcare professionals in medically appropriate settings.

To avoid medspa face, Dr. Frank advocates for “injectable sparing technologies” that complement traditional injectables. He recommends advanced technologies including heat-based devices like Ultherapy, muscle stimulation devices like EMFACE, and minimally invasive procedures like Ellacor and thread lifting. “There are so many things we can do to help the aging process without doing surgery and without being overindulgent in injectables,” says Frank.

Dr. Frank’s key advice for patients across all age groups is moderation and prudence. “Always start slow. Less is more,” he advises. Emphasizing gradual, minimal interventions, Frank encourages a conservative approach to maintain natural aesthetics. “Doing little bits frequently is always better than doing a lot infrequently or a lot frequently. … You don’t want to try to change the shape of the face too much with injectables. This can lead to stretching of the skin, loss of elasticity and retention of water.”

Choosing a trusted and skilled provider who is willing to advise against unnecessary procedures is crucial. “It’s important that you go to someone that just doesn’t use a hammer; they don’t just do injectables because if you only have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. You want someone with a full armamentarium of options to determine what your needs are,” he says. “It’s important, as you build trust, to trust the journey, do small things frequently and remember: Too much of a good thing is definitely not a good thing.”